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BART.
I LEFT ON THE 7TH OF SEPTEMBER 2010

zaterdag 25 september 2010

The Adventure on wheels!

I ARRIVED IN BEIJING!!! but the story you will read below has been written during my stopover in Mongolia, where I spent 2 days in the mountains. (where I finally got the time to write 2 stories - the next one will follow this week) ENJOY reading! (ps. my chinese number for texting or calling is +8613611150352)
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You people are in luck. I’ve got the time again to write a story of my amazing adventure which has been absolutely fantastic so far. At the moment I’m ‘only’ 1,5 day away from Beijing, which means I’m in Mongolia, Ulan-Bataar right now. And I’m not in the city (at the moment of writing this blog that is) Hell no. I’m in Terelij, a national Park of Ulan-Bataar, right up in the mountains. I can’t believe this. It’s so beautiful here, so peaceful and so quiet. No traffic, no shops, no people (except a dozen other guests who are staying in the park) no noise, just nothing, except for beautiful mountains and a clear sky wherever I look. Basically, this is the very first moment, after 2 weeks, that I’m being all alone now, with no other people around. I’m in my own very traditional Ger Tent, behind my laptop near an old fashioned heater which runs on old cow shit (not kidding) and wood! My first alone time, after nearly 2 weeks of meeting people EVERY SINGLE day. 1,5 day for just me and my thoughts! I can’t even think of a better place to be in such situation than here. I’m loving it.

MOSCOW - station
But let’s get back to exactly September the 14th. The day I boarded the famous train Siberian Express. The day another awesome and ridiculous fun adventure begun!

After I woke up (I took my well deserved recovery powernap of approximately 6 hours) the train was on it’s way for quite a while. It was already dark outside and most people were sleeping already, since I saw nobody in de small corridor and most cabines were closed (which meant people didn’t want to get disturbed). In my cabine was no one else, except for one Russian dude (who smelled bad) who was sleeping as well. I travelled 2nd class which meant I had to share my cabine with other people, up to a maximum of 4. Fortunately, I didn’t had lot of ‘room mates’ for the first 3 days, so I used the extra couches for my bags and other shit.
My fellow traintravelers
Anyway, I decided to go for a little ‘walk’, check out some cabines which still might be open, where I maybe could find some peepz to talk to. Also I wanted to check out the ‘restaurant’ carriage, which is basically the ‘middle’ of the train and the place where you can have dinner, hang out and have vodka’s and beers. (this carriage changes during the trip, for example when you pass the border, they will replace the ‘Russian food carriage’ for a ‘Mongolian food carriage’). The restaurant carriage was only ‘3 carriages’ away from my carriage, which (so I found out later) was quite lucky, since I didn’t have to pass a dozen of carriages before I would got there. (I can tell you, it can be quite a trip to walk through a shaking and stirring train, for 100’s of meters, passing all kind of people and obstacles).

When I entered the restaurant carriage, it was empty except for the 2 guys from Finland (who I briefly met right before I took my powernap) and another girl. They were having a beer and were talking. I introduced myself again and I joined them at their table. From that point I made my first ‘train travel friends’. The guys were of my age (mid twenties) and were named ‘Jukka and Rami’. The girl, named ‘Eva’ was in her early 30s and from Chili, but lived in London for many years now. She was quite charismatic, very artistic and spiritual. All 3 of the people were very cool and we had some great laughs that night. The first beers on the Trans-Siberian express became reality, and again, a day without alcohol was an illusion! Oh, hell, you only live once! After 2 (or 3) beers I decided to call it a day (still a little tired LOL), said goodbye to my 3 ‘new made’ friends and went back to my carriage for a good night of rest.
The next ‘morning’ I was woken up by some voices coming from next door. They were talking English. I got out of bed, put on some clothes and walked out of my cabine to see who the people were. On the corridor I met Sarah, an Irish girl of 32. We talked and soon she introduced me to her dad, mr. David, a 61 year old (or young) man. He was awesome. Together with his daughter he was travelling for a while. Very cool! Their cabine was next to mine so we became neighbours. Sarah and David shared their cabine with one more person, a woman (Louisa) from Portugal, who was hilarious as well. She had brought so many stuff (food), she nearly had not enough space to store it. The (last) bed in their cabine was therefore used as some sort of a ‘food shelf’ and was soon to be called ‘Lousia’s shop’. (need some food / chocolate / drinks / soap / whatever?? Go to Louisa’s shop). Together with Jukka, Rami and Eva, the 3 people I met that day became my ‘fellow travellers’ for the next 4 days! And man did we have fun! Before I boarded the train I thought I had plenty of time to write my travel journal, or read at least one book. But I couldn’t be more wrong. I hardly read any page of my book and I only wrote one page in my journal. We had such great fun with the 7 of us I simply didn’t have the time to do other things.
Having fun!!
Me and the group hung out at each others cabines all the time. The cabine of Sarah, David and Louisa soon became the ‘safe zone’ since they were the only ones who didn’t have an extra (Russian) passenger in their cabine. We hung out there every night to play cards, to drink, to eat, to laugh and to ‘stay safe’ from annoying drunk Russians in our own cabines! (coming more on this subject later).
One night, David had a bottle of fine Irish whisky he took from home and he kindly shared it with me! The accent of David became more difficult to understand with every shot of whisky he or I got, but we had so much fun! The night I also played a board game with David, Sarah and Louisa, which in Holland we call ‘mens-erger-je-niet’. A game I haven’t been playing since I was 12 years old. I never expected that a simple game like that, could be that fun because of the circumstances we were in. (the whisky might had to something with it as well)

The 'stop list'

During four days in the train you begin to develop certain routines and behaviour. Sharing food, supplies and drinks in your carriage amongst fellow passengers is part of that behaviour. Its like one giant picnic. The train stopped several times a day, but most of the times only for maybe 2 or 3 minutes, to get passengers on and off. At those stops you were not allowed to get off the train to stretch you legs or got some fresh air outside, because the train would depart immediately again. Instead, we had to wait for the ‘long stops’, usually stops of 20 to 30 minutes (max). Those stops however, came on average only every 4 or 5 hours. Sometimes not at all, and sometimes 2 times after each other. In each carriage their was a ‘time table’ which listed the stops and the stop times.


Soon me and the rest of the group were behaving like ‘prisoners’ who were desperately looking forward to their next few minutes of air time for that day. Simple things like fresh air or stretching the legs became so important. Sometimes I ran around like a crazy bastard on the platforms when I got out, screaming ‘freedom freeeeeedom’. Really you have to experience a trip of 4 days in a small train carriage, to understand this behaviour. But again, it was awesome. On the platforms it was always busy. It was like a little market there. All kind of merchandise was offered. From cigarettes to bread and from smoked fish to eggs. Usually I got myself some water, cokes, chips and other simple food, to survive the days.


The Train
The scenery of the landscapes we passed through Russia (and damn is that country big) was beautiful. Mountains, lakes, cities, villages, forest and plains. It was all there. However, after 3 days in the train you don’t look out the window as much as you did the first day. It becomes ‘usual’.

I haven’t showered at all that 4 days, since there was no shower present. Neither did I go to the toilet for a dump… since it was too ‘dirty’ for my standards. I only used it for a piss. It surprised me that I didn’t got a stomach ache ‘cause I didn’t go to the bathroom for so long. (however the minute I got a decent toilet again, it was like heaven on earth! The poor hotel women is still cleaning it at this moment I suppose hahahah LOL). The toilets in the train were quite unhygienic. But I wasn’t expecting to be on a ‘Hilton hotel on wheels’. So I never complained. Instead I just couldn’t be more happy with my little bottles of ‘no water needed disincentive hand soap’. It became my favourite article in the train. (and of course I shared it with the rest of the group).
The last day of the train, lots of passengers went on and off the train. That last day we had a few drunk Russian guys boarding our carriage. They were old man, and of course I was the ‘lucky’ one to get one of those bastards in my cabine. Well it didn’t matter much, since I hardly spent anytime in my cabine, except for some sleep (the morning I woke up the drunk offered me a vodka already hahaha, crazy man). Another crazy mofo joined the 2 Finnish guys in their cabine. He was so wasted, he kept talking to himself for an hour straight. After he ran out of conversation material he walked outside and started to harass me and Eva, ‘cause we were the only ones outside in the corridor talking for some hours together. After he got a little bit too annoying, (trying to touch me and Eva, wanted to make photos etc) I got fed up with it and start yelling at him and pretending I was starting a fight with him if he didn’t back off. (I figured it couldn’t take much of an effort to floor a drunk Russian guy on a shaky train). Eva grabbed her lonely planet (and those are big) and threatened to hit is face with it if he didn’t get out of her sight! (I loved her south American temper haha… aiaiaiaiaiaia CARRAMBA) Well, it soon became all ‘safe’ again, since the drunk guy had his stop and got off the train.

With that as one of the last many funny or cool things that happened during the 4 days on the train, we reached our first stop finally! (running, screeming, FREEEDOM). We were in Irkutsk. The place where I would stay for the next 2 days. 1 day at lake Baikal. And one day in the city itself. The 4 days in the train flew by like it was only a few hours. I really couldn’t believe that it was over that quick. It was all because of the awesome group of people I spend my time with. If I was alone, it would be a whole different story I suppose.

And so, after I said goodbye to my awesome train friends, I walked on the platform - not knowing yet, what wonderful people I was about to meet in the next few days – towards the Russian guy holding a welcome board which was clearly marked with:

‘Mr. Luijk’.

< to be continued >

click here for more photos!

zondag 19 september 2010

The Adventure has begun!

Okaaaaay, my first update finally!! I’ve ‘landed’ in Irkutsk, a place in Russia, famous for its massive Lake Baikal (it covers more square meters than Holland and Belgium together). It’s absolutely MINDBLOWING beautiful here!

And man, do I have the freakin’ time of my life until now.  Moscow was TOTALLY AWESOME and so were my first 4 days on the TRANS-SIBERIAN EXPRESS! I’m sitting in a hotel now (not the one I’m staying in), enjoying an overprized beer, but it has free (slow) wi-fi, so I will give it a shot to update my followers up to the point where I boarded the Trans-Siberian express. You must be warned tho, its gonna be a long piece of reading!

Sooooo, I left 11 days ago from Amsterdam, but it feels as weeks already. I’ve experienced so many cool things, met so many fantastic people ALREADY, and had such good laughs, it’s all so unbelievable but yet its reality and total fun and happiness.

Anyway, starting from the beginning. On September the 7th I got on my plane to London. After one hour of delay due to a broken airco unit (can’t fly without it apparently :P) I was ready for take off. After a smooth flight and a quick run through customs at London Stansted, I got on a bus to my lovely friend Kara. She picked me up from the bus stop and from there we walked to her apartment. It was the first time I had to carry my backpack for more than 3 minutes, and man… that thing is heavy! I hope I can toss some stuff along my trip (books and clothes) too lose some weight. After arrival at the apartment we chilled a little bit and went to bed early since I got there pretty late.

A day in the park!
The few days I spent in London consisted basically of sightseeing, having dinner, chilling in the park with sushi, enjoying the many bus rides in the double deck busses, walking along Waterloo and Picadily’s  and spending some quality time at Kara & Sarah’s residence.

On the last day I had to get up pretty darn early (4 am) in order to get my bus on time to the airport. Of course I still had my phone on Holland time (didn’t change that, I usually use my watch) so I woke up one hour too early, which I only realized after I showered and Kara mentioned this fact! Haha, anyway now I was sure I wouldn’t miss the buss. It were 3 goooood days at London and I felt somehow sad to leave!

After checking in at London I got a smooth flight again to Moscow. During my stopover at Frankfurt Airport, I met this English man who was going to Moscow as well, to see his girlfriend. We chatted a little about travelling and every day stuff. He was quite nice and also the ‘lucky’ one to receive the very first ‘followbart.com’ business card :-D as a random stranger!!!  (many more would follow the next few days).

After arriving at Moscow, I had no idea where to go, since every sign (outside of the airport that is) was written in Russian. It was like Chinese to me! Luckily my ‘new made friend’ introduced me to his girlfriend, who kindly showed me the way to my bus stop. ‘Oh Yeah’… first obstacle tackled down!!

Since I was staying with a Russian girl who I’ve contacted through Couchsurfing.org, I didn’t know exactly where to go. However, she gave me the directions via e-mail, which I – smart as I am – had printed already before leaving Holland. I showed the driver the directions, paid my 140 rubbles and got a few ‘da da da’s (yes yes yes) which I figured meant “everything will work out fine”.

Kicking back on the couch and enjoying the ride.

After 30 min or so, I arrived at the bus stop, I called my host, and 5 minutes later she showed up. From the first minute we met, we had laughs and it was if we knew each other for years! Her apartment was absolutely awesome and she got me this comfort slippers (which were even rapped plastic) which she stole for me from a hotel! COOL, it felt like a hotel already haha!

My couch was very comfortable and Larisa (my host) made me some tea. That night we didn’t go to the city since it was late already, but instead she took me for a tour around the block. Nice neighbourhood. After we arrived back at the apartment, I surfed the internet a little and went to my very comfortable couch for some sleep.

Partners in crime!
The next day I slept in big time and after waking up and some home-made breakfast by Larisa, we went to the city to meet her friend and her couchsurfer. And man…. WAS THAT A START for some legendary adventures. Her friend – named Nadia and her couchsurfer she had over, was called ALEJANDRO and was from Venuzuela but lived in The Hague. We hit it off big time with the four of us and we had some amazing times in the city. Especially at the Red Square. We arrived there after we had some beers (1.5 liter of Russian beer that is) in this dodgy bar the girls took us to. Needless to say me and Alejandro were messing around big time, making pictures with everyone, spreading my cards among tourist and random pretty Russian ladies. I seriously got a few facebook and couchsurf requests of people I can’t remember I even met! LOL. And not because of the booze, just because I just met too many people.

 
Moscow rocks!

That night we went to a nightclub called “propaganda” together with our two hosts and a third girl- Daria (pronounced as Dasha), who happened to be the roommate and friend of Nadia. I enjoyed myself to the max! Most guys there were typical Russian angry looking fellas, not dancing at all, standing in the corner checking out the girls. And here we came – Bart with flashy clothes, sunglasses and necklace and Alejandro, typical latin boy with beard and hat! Dancing our asses off, me doing the shuffle, Alejandro doing his latin moves (which comes naturally with those people when they are born I suppose). We had a blast.

At 6.00 am we went home and the girls hailed a ‘taxi’. However this was not an ordinary taxi, but just a random stranger with a car who was looking for some extra cash. The girls told me this was illegal, but since its hard to earn decent money in Russia, lots of people try to earn some extra rubbles by doing this ‘favours’. Well fair enough, I wanted to bed, didn’t care if my taxi was legal or not !!!

Next morning pretty hang-overed! But man was it worth it. Larisa was not able to host me anymore, since she had a business trip going on (she mentioned that in advance already of course) so I was supposed to get a hostel. However, after flashing a charming smile at Nadia, she kindly offered a mattress on her floor in her and Daria’s apartment. Sweet!! Together with Alejandro we would have some kickass time there as well.

Well basically the 2 days I spend in Moscow after that, were pretty much did the same as the days before. Clubbing, sightseeing, sleeping in, late lunch (or early dinner)  and having conversations with the most cool people, wherever I went, whether it was in a bar, club, metro, coffee place or in the street! Russian people are so friendly!

The last night, I promised myself to go to bed early cause I wanted to be fit for my long train trip. Needless to say it didn’t work out that way, cause I didn’t want to be a party pooper as the rest of the group wanted to end my last day ‘visit’ to Moscow with me in a proper way. Some Vodka’s and a beer were the result (not much) and I didn’t get home very late, but still, the next morning I felt a little uhm… ‘lazy’ (sorry mum). ( I suppose clubbing 3 nights in a row is not very good for your condition :p)

On my way again!
I had no strength whatsoever, and yet I had to carry my backpack on a bus, 2 metro’s and on foot, before I even got to the train. (of course the metro’s were packed, so no sitting place for poor old Bart and his 20kg heavy backpack!  After a trip of 45 minutes that morning, I finally got to my train… which was such a relief! I quickly bought some snacks cokes and water (NO BEER) so I could cover the first hours of my trip. I got in my wagon, passed two tourists, who I – despite my hangover – immediately talked to, and they told me they were from Finland. Ok, cool, but still… I needed rest! After a brief introduction, I walked to my cabinet, laid down my stuff, took the freshly washed pillow case from the train attendant, and fell asleep…

And so the Trans-Siberian journey begun………


Ps. I managed to get this blog open for everyone, so leaving a comment can be done by everyone right now (no need for an account).  Please do so, I’d appreciate it! Also see the photo section or click here for the pics of London and Moscow!